Unlocking Cairo's Treasures: A Three-Day Exploration of Historical, Cultural, and Religious Wonders

Cairo in three days? Doable! Embarking on a three-day journey in Cairo opens the door to exploring pivotal historical, cultural, and religious sites, providing a comprehensive glimpse into the essence of this vibrant city. Delve into the rich tapestry of Cairo, venture to iconic locations in Giza, Saqqara, Dahshur, and Memphis, and immerse yourself in the captivating stories woven into the fabric of these extraordinary destinations.

Our itinerary:

Day 0: Arrival the night before
Day 1: The Pyramids of Giza, a camel ride, the Sphinx. Hanging out in Zamalek and Dinner with friends (we decided against a cruise down the Nile)
Day 2: Memphis, Saqqara and Dashur. Evening in old Cairo hanging out with the locals
Day 3: The Grand Museum in Cairo, Islamic Cairo and Coptic Cairo

Some additional details:

1. I booked the flights and hotels myself. I found our guide, Andrew Nabil via a recommendation on a Facebook group. I am very grateful we had a guide as he arranged for the transportation (airport to hotel and back and to the various sights). Thanks to a guide, we were whisked through customs and out of the airport, we avoided the constant hounding of street vendors, and got a short cut into the Sphinx, avoiding a long walk. It also helped with the language barrier and I would absolutely use a guide again in Cairo.

2. Cairo was extremely safe. We walked about Zamalek quite late at night and the city was humming. But Zamalek is a safe neighborhood, so know your surroundings

3. We dressed appropriately. I didn’t cover my hair but we also work long pants and tops with sleeves. We did see local women dressed in sleeveless tops and with hair uncovered but dressing appropriately is just respecting the local culture

4. Expect to tip your guide ($15-$20 per person per day) and the driver ($15-$25 per day).

5. Food can be expensive or you can have a most delicious meal at a relatively modest cost in some of the local restaurants

Pre-Day 1: Arrival in Cairo and settling in

A beautiful sunset heralded our arrival into Cairo International. Our guide arranged for someone to assist us at the airport, who efficiently handled unloading our bags from the conveyor belt, guided us through immigration, and facilitated the customs process. The airport was chaotic, and without this assistance, we might have spent an additional 30 minutes navigating through the crowd. Our guide, Andrew Nabil, greeted us outside and extended a warm welcome to Cairo. We were curious about his name, and he explained that Christians in Cairo typically only have Christian names, as having second names is not permitted in Egypt; only first names are allowed.

Our journey then led us to the luxurious Cairo Zamalek Marriott, a change of plans from our initial booking in Giza. Acting on the advice of our friend Mansour (Nilesh’s friend from his Heinz days who now lives in Cairo) and Andrew, who warned us about the disparities between online appearances and reality in local hotels, we opted for the Marriott Cairo Casino and Hotel in Zamalek, an American hotel chain. The price difference, though significant, proved to be a wise investment, particularly as we drove past the next day some of the hotels we had initially considered—revealing differences in location, surroundings, and facade from their online portrayals.

The Cairo Zamalek Marriott, a converted palace, exudes magnificence, and welcomes guests with ornate ceilings, exquisite light fixtures, and an impressive display of artifacts and artwork. Originally built as the Gezirah Palace in the late 19th century for Henriette Pasqualini, a French-Egyptian aristocrat, the Cairo Zamalek Marriott boasts a rich history that includes serving as a royal residence during King Farouk’s reign. Acquired by the Egyptian government in the mid-20th century, the palace underwent meticulous restoration by the Marriott Corporation, preserving its ornate ceilings, grand staircases, and intricate detailing. Today, as a luxury hotel, the Cairo Zamalek Marriott seamlessly combines historical charm with modern comfort. Its prime location on Zamalek Island, overlooking the Nile River, adds to its allure, providing guests with a unique and unforgettable experience that encapsulates the essence of Egypt’s past and present.

Our two rooms on the 8th floor provided breathtaking views of the Nile River and Cairo Tower, adding an extra layer of charm to our stay. The hotel’s amenities, including the pool, gym, and spa, were equally remarkable, even though the unexpected colder weather prevented us from fully enjoying them. In hindsight, the choice to stay at the Marriott Cairo Zamalek proved to be the epitome of luxury and authenticity, exceeding our expectations in every aspect.

After 18 years, we reunited with Mansour, who arrived at 11:45 pm to meet us. Surprisingly, Cairo remains vibrant at this late hour, with many restaurants staying open until 2 am. Mansour took us to a quaint dive where we indulged in delectable street food, featuring sandwich platters with a mix of beef liver, beef sausages, and chicken—an absolute delight! The owner graciously extended the opening hours slightly beyond 2 am to ensure we were well-fed, a gesture we greatly appreciated. We returned to the hotel for a brief couple of hours of sleep, as Andrew was scheduled to pick us up at 7 am for our journey to Giza.

Day 1: The Pyramids of Giza, the Sphinx, a camel ride, followed by a visit to a Papyrus factory, an Aromatherapy store, and a delicious, home-cooked Egyptian meal

Giza, renowned for its iconic pyramids, set the stage for our adventure. Promptly at 7 am, Andrew picked us up, and we fueled up with sweet croissants, fresh orange, and mango juice before setting off. Adil, our skilled driver, adeptly navigated through the bustling Cairo traffic. The streets, store layouts, buildings, and traffic triggered memories of Mumbai, with buses stopping anywhere for passengers and people darting between vehicles to cross streets or hail a tuktuk or bus. The lively scene provided a dynamic backdrop to our journey to the pyramids.

As we drive towards our destination, Andrew provided historical background: Giza is a must-see destination primarily because it is home to the iconic Giza Pyramid Complex, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. The complex includes the Great Pyramid of Giza, the Sphinx, and other smaller pyramids. These ancient structures, built during the reign of Pharaohs in ancient Egypt, showcase remarkable engineering and architectural achievements that continue to captivate visitors. The Great Pyramid of Khufu, in particular, is the largest of the three pyramids (the other two being the Pyramid of Khafre, and the Pyramid of Menkaure), the most famous, and has long been a symbol of mystery and fascination.

The Great Pyramid of Giza, or Pyramid of Khufu, is the largest of the Giza pyramids, built around 2560 BC for Pharaoh Khufu. Standing at 146.6 meters, it was built stone by stone, just slotted into each other and then covered in smooth Tura limestone. The Pyramid of Khafre, associated with Pharaoh Khafre, is the second-largest at 136.4 meters, featuring the Great Sphinx nearby. The Pyramid of Menkaure, the smallest at Giza, is associated with Pharaoh Menkaure, standing at 65 meters. These pyramids, built during the Fourth Dynasty, represent remarkable achievements in ancient Egyptian architecture, known for their precision and mathematical proportions. Note that the Pyramid of Khafre, stands adjacent to the renowned Pyramid of his father, Khufu and while it isn’t bigger (the son couldn’t build a bigger pyramid than his father’s) it appears to be taller. The apparent height difference is due to the elevated bedrock upon which the Pyramid of Khafre is constructed.

We marveled at the engineering; how did these structures stand tall with no cement to hold the stones together? The exact methods of how the stones in the ancient Egyptian pyramids were assembled without the use of cement are not fully understood, and this has been a subject of historical debate. However, it was speculated that the stones were held together through precise shaping and fitting. Skilled craftsmanship allowed for nearly perfect joints, eliminating the need for mortar. Some theories suggest the use of wooden pegs or dowels to aid alignment during construction, with drilled holes in the stones for peg insertion.

We embarked on a camel ride by the Pyramids, a magical experience that transported us back in time to the era of ancient Egypt. As we mounted the camel, the majestic structures rose before us, creating a breathtaking backdrop against the clear sky. But gosh, were we initially terrified of falling off and it took us some getting used to the rhythmic gait of the camels. Sean’s camel had a mind of his own, taking off into the desert and our guide having to rush off to get him back. Then the camel sat down and refused to get up – talk about a temper tantrum!!

The camel rides were arranged through our guide, Andrew.

From there we made our way to the Sphinx. With the body of a lion and the head of Pharaoh Khafre, it stands as a colossal guardian near the Pyramids of Giza.

The Sphinx Temple is situated to the northeast of the Sphinx and is believed to have been constructed during the same period as the Pyramid of Khafre, around 2500 BC. The Sphinx Temple is characterized by large limestone blocks and features an entrance hall and an open courtyard. The temple likely held religious significance and was part of the complex used for rituals and ceremonies during ancient times.

Carved from a single limestone block, the Sphinx exudes an aura of mystery and timelessness. Its enigmatic expression and weathered features bear witness to thousands of years of history. As you approach, you can feel the magnitude of its presence, with the Great Pyramid as a backdrop. And it’s not the only sphinx in Egypt, there were other smaller sphinxes found, and are now in Luxor. A little part of me felt let down – you imagine it to be this gigantic statue because of how it’s photographed against the Great Pyramid. In reality, it’s still colossal but not as large as I expected.

Andrew mentioned that the temple was used to mummify the body first. The body was cleaned with water from the Nile, then the internal organs removed through a careful, precise process. The body was covered and packed in natron, a naturally occurring salt mixture that helped in the dehydration process. Natron absorbed moisture, preserving the body. After the body was dried, it was cleaned, and various amulets and charms were placed between the layers of linen bandages. The wrapping process was meticulous, with each body part wrapped individually. During the mummification process, various rituals and prayers were performed to ensure the deceased’s safe journey to the afterlife. While the body was being mummified, at the same time, the coffins were being built. The wooden coffin was commonly placed inside a stone sarcophagus. The wooden coffin, intricately decorated and inscribed, served as the outermost layer, featuring personalized details like images, texts, and protective symbols. This coffin, resembling the deceased, was considered a crucial element in the burial ritual. The stone sarcophagus, crafted from materials such as limestone, granite, or marble, provided an additional protective layer, often adorned with finely carved inscriptions and symbols. a wooden coffin was commonly placed inside a stone sarcophagus. It was not uncommon in ancient Egypt for a single mummy to be placed inside multiple coffins. The belief was that the multiple coffins provided layers of protection and symbolism for the deceased as they journeyed into the afterlife. Now once the body was mummified and placed in the coffin, a ramp between the temple and the pyramid enabled the coffin to be taken to the pyramid. There it speculated that it was placed in the heavier bigger coffins or sarcophagus.

We chose not to go inside the pyramids because we were going to do that in Saqqara and we also didn’t visit the Grand Egyptian Museum since a lot of the artifacts were still at the old museum location in Cairo that we were visiting on day 3.

We drove through the narrow, crowded and chaotic streets of Giza. Reminds us of India! The camel stables are near the Sphinx so the area near by smells and there’s really not much to do there in the evenings, so we are glad we didn’t stay there that night. We visited an aromatherapy store, Golden Eagle Crystal, where an aromatherapist gave us a very enlightening walk through how perfumes are made, and how various essences are used to address various ailments.

From there, we head to a Papyrus store, Golden Eagle Papyrus, where we are shown how papyrus paper is made from the papyrus plant, and the strength of the paper while being so pliable. We learn that to check the originality of this being actual papyrus you hold it up against light and the paper should be woven in a cross weave. We saw beautiful paintings on papyrus including some that changed designs when seen in the dark vs in the light. We should have done more homework. We later learnt that while it’s a government store, it’s much overpriced and our guide, Andrew, possibly gets a commission (as expected) but we should have expected that or known that you can bargain at a supposedly government, fixed price store, as the country is heavily reliant on tourist dollars. A good lesson that we took into account for the rest of our trip.

After a wonder-filled day, Andrew led us for his treat to Abou Tarek – a famous restaurant located in the downtown area of Cairo, and it has gained a reputation for serving delicious and authentic koshary. Koshary is a classic Egyptian dish consisting of a tasty blend of rice, macaroni, lentils, chickpeas, and spiced tomato sauce. Topped with crispy fried onions and seasoned with garlic and vinegar, it offers a comforting and affordable mix of textures and flavors. Popular as street food and a home-cooked meal, koshary is a beloved dish in Egypt. Following that, Andrew dropped us back to the hotel.

We took a quick nap and then explored Zamalek. Zamalek is an upscale residential and cultural neighborhood situated on Gezira Island in the Nile River, Cairo. It has a vibrant nightlife scene with trendy bars and lounges and comes alive in the evenings with restaurants packed through 1-2am.

Later that evening, Mans along with two of his absolutely adorable younger kids picked us up an took us to their home, where his beautiful wife, Shireen had cooked up a meal of every possible traditional Egyptian food: Molokhia (A soup made by cooking a large amount of finely chopped jute, which is a green leaf vegetable with a distinctively bitter flavor. Traditionally, the soup is cooked with garlic, coriander, chicken meat or chicken stock, and is usually served with white rice or pita bread, and a lemon or lime wedge on the side. It is believed that the dish dates back to the time of the Pharaohs, its name coming from the word mulokia, meaning Kingdom of Royals, referring to the fact that it was consumed only by the kings, queens, and nobles during the era. Its slimy texture and strong aroma makes it an acquired taste), Ros Maamar (baked rice), vegetables, and an assortment of kebabs and koftas all served with Egyptian bread, salads and tahina. We washed it down with some Egyptian coffee and dessert for the Gods – fresh grapes and oranges! We had such an enjoyable evening with Mans and his family. Their kids were absolutely adorable and our two enjoyed playing with them. The two older kids were in Instanbul for holidays so we hope to meet them some other time. It was also nice to get a glimpse of homes in Egypt – this was a beautifully decorated bungalow, with stone floors and a pretty garden.

Day 2: Sakkara (Saqqara), Dahshur and Memphis

A traditional Egyptian breakfast, known for its rich flavors and diverse offerings, typically includes a variety of dishes that cater to different tastes. One popular breakfast item is “ful medames,” a dish made from fava beans cooked with garlic, lemon juice, and olive oil. It is often served with a side of fresh vegetables, bread, and sometimes boiled eggs.

“Eish baladi,” a type of Egyptian flatbread, is a staple accompaniment to breakfast. It is commonly enjoyed with a spread of local cheeses, honey, and jam. Another favorite is “taameya,” the Egyptian version of falafel, made from ground fava beans or chickpeas and flavored with herbs and spices.

And we had to wash it down with Egyptian coffee.

Andrew was already booked that day and sent us his colleague, Carter to show us around. We started by heading out to the countryside to the town of Memphis – once the capital of ancient Egypt. Donkeys seemed to be the mode of transport along with buses and tuktuks (called auto rickshaws in India and Bajaj (for the manufacturer) in Dar es Salaam).

Along the way, we pass lush green fields that sit on the banks of the Nile

We stopped at the Memphis Open Air museum, an archaeological site that features a collection of statues, sphinxes, and artifacts. The museum is dedicated to preserving the history of ancient Memphis.

We saw the Alabaster Sphinx, the second largest Sphinx found – believed to represent Pharaoh Amenhotep II.

Carter explained how another statue was that of a King, given the crown on his head, the muscular body, the left leg advanced meaning they were advancing the army forward, along with a kilt with stripes on it. It was made of granite procured from the south in Aswan.

One of the highlights is the enormous statue of Pharaoh Ramses II, also known as the “Colossus of Ramses.” The statue is made of limestone and stands at around 33 feet tall. It’s a significant representation of ancient Egyptian art and craftsmanship.

Then we headed to Dahshur, home to the Red Pyramid and the Bent Pyramid.

The Bent Pyramid was constructed during the reign of Pharaoh Sneferu in the Fourth Dynasty. It is distinctive for its unique shape, featuring a change in the angle of inclination, likely due to engineering concerns during construction. Originally built with a steeper slope, it was later altered to a shallower angle.

The burial chamber is reached via a tunnel twice the length of the 40-metre Great Gallery that delves into the heart of the Great Pyramid of Giza. The Bent Pyramid was a practice run ordered by the pharaoh Sneferu, whose son Khufu ran with the idea, and went on to build the Great Pyramid. Why is the pyramid called Bent? Because the architect only realized halfway through its construction that the 54.4-degree angle was impossible and reverted to a 43.9-degree angle to top it out. The same architect built the Red Pyramid near-by but also got another one wrong – the Black Pyramid near by

Constructed with limestone, the Red Pyramid derives its name from the reddish hue of its stones. It appears to have a red shine to it caused by the red limestone used to build the core structure. Notably, the Red Pyramid marks a significant advancement in pyramid construction, being one of the earliest successful attempts at creating a true smooth-sided pyramid. It stands as the third-largest pyramid in Egypt, showcasing a robust and impressive design. e were able to venture inside the Red Pyramid and as with another pyramid we ventured into, we encounter a series of passageways and chambers that lead to the burial chamber deep within the pyramid. The interior features the intricate design and craftsmanship of the ancient Egyptians, with walls adorned with hieroglyphs and scenes from religious and funeral rituals. This is truly an architectural and engineering marvel. Carter was a fantastic guide, sharing details about the tombs, the hieroglyphs, and so much more.

We didn’t venture into the Red Pyramid, Nilesh ran up the stairs to the entrance which was quite high up. The descent into the pyramid was too narrow and too steep for our liking.

From there we headed to Saqqara, home to the Step Pyramid and many other smaller pyramids. Designed by the architect Imhotep, the Step Pyramid is considered the earliest large-scale cut-stone construction and the first pyramid ever built, preceding the pyramids of Dahshur and Giza. . It marks a transition from earlier mastaba tombs (a bench shape) to the more familiar pyramid shape. The complex includes a series of mastabas stacked on top of each other, creating a stepped structure. The use of mastabas declined as pyramids became the preferred burial structures for pharaohs and high-ranking individuals.

Ever wonder what the inside of a Pyramid looks like? We went into one of the pyramids in Saqqara. We encountered a series of passageways and chambers that lead to the burial chamber deep within the pyramid. The interior features the intricate design and craftsmanship of the ancient Egyptians, with walls adorned with hieroglyphs and scenes from religious and funeral rituals. This is truly an architectural and engineering marvel.

From left to right pictures from within one of the pyramids: Hippos and crocodiles shown make this tomb unique; A false door with an offering table. Hieroglyphs are top to bottom and left to right. The door is supposed to be the door to the afterlife where the soul from the afterlife came back for the offerings; The inner tomb representing the offerings to the princess, ad lastly, the outer tomb representing daily life.

That evening Mans and Shireen picked us up and headed out to what’s known as Islamic Cairo to a restaurant near the Khan El Khalili Market to show us how Egyptian families traditionally spend weekends. Islamic Cairo and Khan El Khalili Market are two iconic and culturally rich areas in Cairo, Egypt, offering a glimpse into the city’s historical and vibrant heritage. Islamic Cairo is renowned for its numerous mosques, madrasas, and other Islamic monuments and is characterized by narrow winding streets, historic buildings, and a captivating atmosphere even at 1am when we encountered street musicians, jugglers and a lot of singing. Khan El Khalili is one of the oldest and most famous markets in the Middle East. This bustling souk is a vibrant hub of commerce and culture, offering a wide array of goods, from traditional crafts and spices to jewelry and textiles. As we walked to the restaurant, we passed a beautiful mosque, stores selling spices of all sorts, and some stores with gorgeous lamps. We passed the Sabil-Kuttab of Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda a historical monument located in Al-Muizz street. It is an architectural complex that combines a sabil (a public water dispenser) and a kuttab (a Quranic school) and in the days of yore, water carriers would come to fill bags of water that were pumped here, and then sell it door to door. You could also come and fill your own water here.

The restaurant buzzed with multi-generational families seeking a delightful evening. Singers set the mood, with guests enthusiastically joining in, while dancers added to the lively atmosphere. Hookahs and spontaneous singing further contributed to the overall entertainment. It was a thoroughly enjoyable experience for all. We feasted on Sahlab, a Middle Eastern sweet milk pudding. It’s creamy, decadent and definitely warmed us up on that cold, winter evening.

A Tanoura dancer

Here is a “Tanoura” dancer. The Tanoura dance is a traditional folk dance that originated from the Sufi whirling practices. The dancer wears a large colorful skirt, known as a “Tanoura,” and performs elaborate spinning movements, creating a captivating visual display.

Day 3: The Grand Egyptian Museum, Coptic Cairo and Islamic Cairo

We started with the Grand Egyptian Museum, designed to house and showcase Egypt’s vast collection of artifacts and treasures, including those from the Pharaonic era, with a focus on the Giza Plateau. The museum houses a lot of the treasures from King Tut. While King Tutankhamun’s reign was relatively short and unremarkable compared to other pharaohs, the circumstances of his tomb’s discovery and the treasures it contained have made him an enduring figure. Unlike many other pharaohs whose tombs were looted in ancient times, Tutankhamun’s burial chamber was found largely intact.

Tutankhamun became pharaoh at the age of nine and died around the age of 18 or 19. His young age, combined with the mystery surrounding his death, has captured the public’s imagination.

The map in the museum showed an ancient Egypt including North and South Sinai. In South Sinai, near a town called St. Catherine are the mountians where Moses received the 10 commandments
Carter helped us understand the various statues – crossed hands and a darker color status means it represented a king who was dead, and the crown was that of lower Egypt
Hathor is a significant goddess in ancient Egyptian mythology associated with love, music, dance, and motherhood. Hathor is often depicted as a cow goddess, symbolizing maternal care and fertility. She is sometimes portrayed as the celestial cow protecting the king by providing nourishment and prosperity. In the next photo, take a look at the beautiful paintings found in the cavern in which the statue was found
These are gold masks that were made for the mummy
King Tut’s chair
Anubis, the jackal-headed god in ancient Egyptian mythology, was associated with mummification and served as the protector of the deceased. Revered as the patron deity of embalming, Anubis played a crucial role in ensuring the proper preservation of the body for the afterlife. Often depicted with the head of a jackal, he guided souls through the judgment process and safeguarded them on their journey to the afterlife

Knowing that the kids have a limited attention span in museums, we headed out to old Cairo also known as Islamic Cairo.

Our first stop was the Citadel:

The Mosque of Muhammad Ali, also known as the Alabaster Mosque, is situated within the Citadel of Cairo, Egypt. Constructed between 1830 and 1848, the mosque exhibits distinctive Ottoman architecture, featuring alabaster construction, a central dome, and two minarets. Adorned with intricate decorations, it stands as a symbol of Cairo and a significant historical and cultural landmark. The mosque, named after Muhammad Ali Pasha, remains an active religious site and a popular destination for visitors, offering panoramic views of Cairo from its elevated position within the Citadel. It brought back memories of the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, Turkey, due to certain architectural similarities, such as the large central dome.

The mosque houses beautiful oil lamps, a gift from the King of France.

The Al-Rifa’i Mosque in Cairo, Egypt located near the Citadel is known for housing the tombs of members of the Egyptian royal family as well as the last Shah of Iran.

From there we head to what’s known as Christian Cairo or Copic Cairo, the historic and culturally rich areas in Cairo, Egypt, that have a significant Christian presence and heritage. Several ancient churches are located in Coptic Cairo, including the Hanging Church (Saint Virgin Mary’s Coptic Orthodox Church), Saint Sergius and Bacchus Church, and the Church of St. George. Being so close to Christmas, we felt blessed to be able to visit and experience the sites that the Holy Family travelled through.

The Hanging Church, or Saint Virgin Mary’s Coptic Orthodox Church, is a significant Coptic church in Cairo.

The church is situated above the gatehouse of the Babylon Fortress in Coptic Cairo. The distinct feature that gives the church its name is the way its nave (the main body of the church) appears to be suspended or hanging over the passage leading to the Babylon Fortress.

From there, we head to the Church of St. Sergius and Bacchus.

From L to R above: The cavern where the Holy Family stayed was built with a combination of brick and wood, combined to give the building flexibility during earthquakes. An icon represents the life of Jesus and his Passion, painted on wood in the 18th century. Inside the church are 12 columns representing the 12 disciples.

Above and left: The Church of St. Sergius and Bacchus, commonly known as Abu Serga, is an ancient Coptic Christian church. The church is often referred to as the “Cavern Church” due to its underground structure. It is built on the site where, according to tradition, the Holy Family (Joseph, Mary, and the infant Jesus) sought refuge during their flight into Egypt. The interior of the church is adorned with beautiful Coptic frescoes and decorations that depict scenes from the Bible and the life of Jesus. The church is named after Saints Sergius and Bacchus, early Christian martyrs and soldiers who are venerated in the Coptic Orthodox Church. On the left is the stairs going into the cavern, followed by a little stone crib where the baby Jesus lay and the room where they took shelter. There’s a covered narrow well that indicates where the Holy Family drank from.