A safari is a bucket list item for most and a dream come true for us.

Our itinerary in a nutshell:

1. Day 1: Fly into Arusha and head to Lake Manyara, spending the night at the Farm of Dreams lodge
2. Day 2: Southern Serengeti, spend the night at the migratory Sero Tented Camp
3. Day 3: Central Serengeti, spend the night at the Serengeti Safari Lodge
4. Day 4: Ngorongoro Crater, night at Suricata Boma Lodge
5. Day 4: Tarangire National Park, night at Arusha

If you’d like to learn more about planning for a safari, I’ve captured all the details here: Planning a Safari

Day 1:  Exploring the wonders of Lake Manyara:

We land at Arusha airport, excited and a bit travel-weary, and are met by our friendly guide, Jeff (short for Japhet, though everyone calls him Jeff). He works with Safari Soles, the local Tanzanian company that helped organize our safari—and they were great to work with from start to finish.

Jeff loads our bags into our trusty seven-seater Land Rover, and just like that, we are on the road, heading toward Lake Manyara.

Lake Manyara is famous for its tree-climbing lions and was once described by Ernest Hemingway as “the loveliest lake in Africa.” It’s a relatively small national park, but it packs a punch—home to elephants, lions, buffalos, and leopards (four of the Big Five), though in smaller numbers than some of the larger parks.

The drive there takes us through lively villages, where we get our first real glimpse of Tanzanian life—bright colors, friendly faces, and the buzz of everyday activity. The landscape changed as we approached the park, turning greener and lush.

Driving through the park feels like stepping into a different world. We pass through thick vegetation, spotting elephants and baboons, and keeping our eyes peeled for the elusive lions in the trees. While lions can climb trees, in this region, they actually do it more often—supposedly for a better view of potential prey amidst the dense foliage, or maybe just to get away from the bugs.

No lions in trees just yet, but the sense of adventure has definitely kicked in. A great start to the journey.

We are soon entertained by groups of baboons, with their striking red bottoms, playing and grooming each other. The kids went ewww but also laughed heartily  when one baboon picked and ate something out of another’s bottom—definitely a memorable sight!

The day grew even more magical as we encountered graceful giraffes and herds of zebras, gazelles and impalas. It was easy to confuse the gazelles and impalas.

A gazelle is a relatively small and slender antelope known for its speed and agility. Key features include a fawn-colored coat with a black stripe along its flank, white underparts, and distinctive black markings on its face. Both males and females have horns, but the females’ horns are typically shorter and more slender. Thomson’s gazelles are primarily found in the grasslands and savannahs of East Africa, particularly in Kenya and Tanzania. They are often referred to as “tommies” and are known for their ability to reach speeds of up to 80-90 kilometers per hour (50-55 mph). 

Impalas are larger than gazelles and are also antelopes, but they belong to a different genus (Aepyceros). Impalas have a reddish-brown coat with white underparts and black markings, but they lack the distinct black stripe on the flank that is seen on Thomson’s gazelles. Impalas are also more commonly found in areas with denser vegetation and access to water. 

All the driving is starting to get us hungry. We knew the hotel had picked us a picnic basket but were we expected to venture out of the jeep into the open to have lunch? Would that make us lunch for the animals?? Jeff laughed as he explained there were picnic sites and we were heading to one.

On our way to the picnic site, a massive male elephant strolled through the forest. These majestic African elephants, with their large ears and longer tusks, are truly a sight to behold. As we snapped photos, the elephant approached us, and we held our breath in awe and also with a sense of concern until he peacefully wandered off.

We came to a clearing that had about 5 wooden picnic tables. Surrounded with acacia trees, lunch in the bush under the shade of an acacia tree made the food – rice, chicken curry, vegetables and fruit, even more delicious.

Well satiated, we continuef the drive – eyes peeled, and we were well rewarded by animal sightings throughout the day.

After an exhilarating day in the bush, we checked into the Farm of Dreams Lodge—a beautiful retreat nestled in the heart of Karatu, with a swimming pool that the kids couldn’t wait to dive into. Our evening concluded with an energetic acrobatic and dance show put on by the local performers, making for a perfect end to a thrilling day.

Day 2: Southern Serengeti National Park

Our journey to the southern Serengeti will take us past the breathtaking Ngorongoro Crater, a scenic four-hour drive. Navigating the steep and narrow curves to the crater’s rim requires strong driving skills, but the effort is rewarded with spectacular views. As we stop at the rim, we’re treated to a gorgeous view of the Ngorongoro Crater. This remarkable geological formation was created over 3,000 years ago by a volcanic eruption, and its salt water is rich in calcium, which attracts a variety of animals. The anticipation of exploring the crater and discovering all it has to offer fills us with excitement.

From the spectacular rim of the Ngorongoro Crater, we embarked on our journey towards the southern Serengeti. The drive was nothing short of awe-inspiring as we passed herds of giraffe, zebra, gazelle, and wildebeest. A true highlight was witnessing a family of giraffes gracefully crossing our path, their long necks swaying rhythmically against the backdrop of the vast African landscape and dotted with small Maasai villages. This journey through the rich tapestry of wildlife set the perfect tone for our southern Serengeti adventure.

Before crossing into the Serengeti, we visited a Maasai village, home to 110 people. The Maasai are a Nilotic ethnic group known for their semi-nomadic pastoralist lifestyle, herding cattle, goats, and sheep. They are famous for their distinctive customs, such as the age-set system of social organization and traditional ceremonies. The Maasai have managed to preserve most of their traditions, lifestyle, and lore despite the challenges of modern Africa. The pictures of Maasai warriors in their bright red robes are iconic symbols of Africa.

We were surprised to be greeted by an eloquent, English-speaking tribesman. He shared that he had completed a college education in Dar Es Salaam and had returned to the village to help them grow. We learnt that each clan is led by a village chief. Each clan must stay separate from others to prevent conflicts over cattle, which are considered their riches. The community consists of mud and grass huts surrounded by a wall of thorny plants to keep out hyenas and elephants.

The village chief, with his 15 wives and their numerous children, illustrated the communal and family-centric lifestyle of the Maasai. Women in the village often undertake long journeys to fetch water, a testament to their resilience and essential role in the community. Their diet includes cow’s blood, milk, and meat, with blood being drawn from a living cow by carefully poking a capillary to extract 2-3 liters, which is then sealed to prevent further blood loss. This practice is especially significant during childbirth, as the women drink the blood mixed with milk for nourishment.

Our visit began with a welcoming dance, where the Maasai men showcased their incredible high jumps to determine the best jumper. We were invited to join in another dance and sing along. Nilesh was given an ebony staff, symbolic of the chief’s authority, while Sean received a long stick used by tribesmen as they tend to their herds. We then visited a kindergarten school, where children under seven were learning the English alphabet and they surprised us with their knowledge of addition and subtraction. Our guide explained that education in Dar es Salaam had enabled him to return and contribute to his community. The adorable children sang songs and proudly solved double-digit addition problems for us. We were told that after a child turns seven, they are sent away to a proper boarding school so they can continue their education.

The Serengeti is an expansive and iconic ecosystem in northern Tanzania, covering approximately 30,000 square kilometers (about 11,583 square miles). This vast area encompasses the Serengeti National Park, which is about 14,750 square kilometers (approximately 5,700 square miles), as well as several surrounding reserves and conservation areas. the Serengeti is often divided into three main regions: the Southern, Central, and Northern Serengeti, each offering distinct landscapes and wildlife experiences:

1. Southern Serengeti: This area includes the Ndutu region and is renowned for the calving season of the Great Migration. Between December and March, vast herds of wildebeest give birth to their young here, attracting numerous predators.
2. Central Serengeti: Known as the Seronera region, this area is famous for its year-round wildlife viewing. It’s characterized by wide-open plains, acacia woodlands, and the Seronera River, providing excellent opportunities to see big cats, elephants, and other wildlife.
3. Northern Serengeti: This region is best known for the dramatic river crossings during the Great Migration, typically from July to September. The Mara River, in particular, is a hotspot for witnessing wildebeest and zebras braving the crocodile-infested waters.

We paused for a delightful hot lunch sent from our hotel, savoring rice, fish curry, vegetables, and refreshing drinks amidst the bush. At our lunch site, we were accompanied by Marabou storks, their enormous bills and distinctive pink pouches making them easily recognizable. After lunch, our guide treated us to his beautiful singing, setting a pleasant tone for the rest of the day.

Not long after, we encountered a tiny watering hole where a pack of five lionesses and their cubs were resting. Our guide expertly maneuvered through the brush, offering us various angles to admire these majestic creatures. Continuing our drive, we passed the vast but parched Lake Ndutu, where flamingos appeared to be standing on glassy water. Deep within the lake, we spotted a hippo barely surfacing. Our guide explained that while adult hippos can stay underwater for up to 1.5 hours, baby hippos can only dive for 5-10 minutes, making them vulnerable to drowning and predators like crocodiles. Despite their shared habitat, hippos and crocs maintain distinct territories.

This journey through the Serengeti offered us an unforgettable glimpse into the lives of its incredible wildlife, each moment more captivating than the last.

Continuing past Lake Ndutu, we encountered three large deer lounging in a dry river bed. A few minutes later, we saw three lions, brothers, enjoying an afternoon siesta, much to the delight of the kids who watched them roll over with complete nonchalance. Not far from them, a lone lioness surprised us as she looked up, startling the kids with her proximity. As we drove on, Jeff, our guide, spotted a leopard resting in a tree. Leopards are known to sometimes jump on jeeps and peer in, but thankfully, this one remained on its perch.

Our journey took us past herds of wildebeest, part of the great migration into southern Tanzania. Watching thousands of wildebeest run was a spectacular sight, though we noted the weak, sick, or slow ones lagging behind, becoming targets for predators. We then saw three cheetahs feasting on a wildebeest, with one cheetah always on the lookout for others. What a sight that was! In the distance, a hyena patiently waited its turn, showcasing their scavenging nature. As we continued, we were rewarded with the sight of a family of elephants emerging from a watering hole, dusting themselves with mud—a perfect end to an extraordinary drive.

The highlight of our day was undoubtedly the encounter with a lioness and her three playful cubs. The cubs entertained us as they took turns crouching, stealthily sneaking up, and pouncing on each other—a sight so endearing that the kids wanted to adopt them!

With hearts full of joy and cameras full of memories, we headed to the Sero Serengeti Lodge. What an amazing day it was, filled with the wonders of the Serengeti and unforgettable wildlife encounters!

We spent the night at the Sero Serengeti Tented Camp, an eco-friendly migratory camp that follows the Great Migration. The site boasts about fifteen spacious and clean tents, each equipped with a self-contained shower with hot water, a sink, and flush toilets. With no compound wall, the camp is open to wandering animals, meaning we couldn’t roam freely after dusk without a Maasai tribesman escort. A large central tent serves as an indoor eating area, but dinner that night was an unforgettable experience under the stars, surrounded by thorny bushes to keep animals at bay. After a delicious meal, we were escorted to our tents by a tribesman. If we needed to leave, we could signal them with provided torches, ensuring our tents were securely locked for the night. Despite the excitement and anticipation of hearing lions or elephants, I slept soundly.

The camp offers modern amenities, including solar-powered electricity and Wi-Fi, which thrilled the kids. As night fell, the sounds of the Serengeti came alive around us. While I enjoyed a deep sleep, others were kept awake by the mysterious animal calls echoing through the darkness. The ambiance of the camp, combined with the day’s thrilling wildlife encounters, made for an extraordinary and immersive safari experience.

We then continue our journey, driving again on the banks of the river Ndutu passing by lots of flocks of beautiful flamingos. We then come across a rolled-up breaster bird also known as a rainbow bird because of the beautiful colors seen when it spreads its wings and flies. The bright blue in the wings reminds me of the pretty Bluejays we see back home.  We continue driving and come across a dikdik, a small deer, and then a family of giraffes sitting in the grass.

As we passed by some huge rocks, we spotted a small pride of lions—one lion, two lionesses, and two cubs—basking in the sun. Soon after, we saw a secretary bird, named for its strutting gait reminiscent of an office worker. This particular bird was in the midst of swallowing a green mamba snake. Not far off, we also saw a smith plover bird. It was fascinating to witness these diverse and unique wildlife moments, each adding to the richness of our safari experience.

Then it started to rain, quickly turning the roads into pools, and to our dismay, we got stuck in a ditch. Despite our best efforts, we couldn’t get out until a few other vehicles stopped to help. Thanks to the use of chains and another vehicle, we were finally freed, an episode that made for good video footage for the other vehicles. Shortly after, another vehicle got stuck. It was heartwarming to see the camaraderie among the guides, whether helping each other out of a ditch or indicating animal sightings.

We continue the drive and see lions watching out over the plains despite the rains, and the cutest site of a mama warthog running across the trail into the bushes with her babies following as quickly as their little legs allowed.

We stopped for lunch on a hill with a view and then headed back to the lodge as the kids wanted to head for a pool. As we drove, we paused to see a massive elephant who was making his way towards the trail. And then he paused and stared into the vehicle. And we went quiet and held our breath as he slowly turned the corner and continue to stare into the vehicle. We heaved a sigh of relief when he turned his back and walked away.

Or so we thought until we saw our lodge, the Serengeti Safari Lodge, a huge, thatched dwelling with a sitting room and two bedrooms. The house was built on stilts to prevent animals from getting in. Its balconies allowed us to grab a cup of tea while gazing over expansive views of the Serengeti. Again, to go back and forth from the main lodge, we had to be accompanied by a Maasai tribesman and his spear. They shared that they frequently encountered leopards, wild buffalo, and giraffe in the area. At night, we heard warthogs under the house, adding to the immersive safari experience. This lodge, built to blend with nature while ensuring safety, offered the perfect end to our adventurous day.

Day 4: Ngorongoro Crater
We have a long drive out of the central Serengeti to the Ngorongoro conservation area. The Ngorongoro Crater is one of the most stunning natural wonders in the world, located in northern Tanzania. It is the largest inactive volcanic caldera on Earth, measuring about 20 kilometers (12.4 miles) in diameter. A caldera is a large, bowl-shaped volcanic depression that forms when a volcano erupts and collapses in on itself. This dramatic geological formation occurred over 3,000 years ago when a massive volcano erupted and subsequently collapsed, creating the vast crater we see today.

We head back to the hotel, the Suricata Boma Lodge, ready to bring in the new year. Two majestic centenary baobabs greeted us as we arrived at the lodge. The rooms boast stunning views of Lake Manyara and breathtaking sunset views of the Rift Valley. The kids were tickled to see that each of our rooms was uniquely inspired by a different wild animal.  No better way to relax than dipping into the pool that was surrounded by lush tropical gardens.

That night, being the 31st of December, the staff prepared a feast for the New Year’s Eve celebration, including a goat roast. After dinner, we joined the staff in bringing in the New Year, to the thumping beats of Afro-music. The staff was fantastic, engaging all of us in the dancing.

Getting up early the next morning was a challenge but after a bountiful, delicious breakfast, which always included eggs and plenty of fruit, we were on our way to Tarangire national park.

Tarangire National Park is located in northern Tanzania and is renowned for its vast elephant herds and the seasonal Tarangire River that flows through the park. It covers an area of approximately 2,850 square kilometers, making it one of Tanzania’s largest national parks. The park is named after the Tarangire River, which serves as a vital water source for wildlife during the dry season. The word tarangire means ‘river of warthogs’ so we expected to see plenty of them.

The landscape of Tarangire is diverse, featuring rolling savannah, acacia woodlands, baobab trees, and swamps. This variety of habitats supports a rich array of wildlife. In addition to elephants, visitors can spot lions, leopards, cheetahs, giraffes, zebras, wildebeests, and an impressive variety of bird species. The park is also known for its large termite mounds, which provide shelter for various animals.

The adventure continued with our guide enlightening us on the subtle differences between impalas and gazelles. While impalas don’t have a stripe, gazelles can be identified by their distinctive black stripe.

As we drove through the landscape, it was dotted with kigelia, or sausage trees, which are a favorite haunt of lions. These trees have thick canopies and large, sausage-shaped hanging fruits.

Our journey led us to an encounter with an elephant missing a tusk, a reminder that tusks, unfortunately, don’t regrow. A mile further, we reached the Tarangire River, where an old male elephant gave us quite a show—standing on three legs in a yoga pose, drinking water, spraying himself, and then casually ambling away.

Despite the tall grass at Tarangire, we spotted a pair of lionesses resting under a baobab tree, along with giraffes and big buck deer. Two baby giraffes made an appearance as well, though their mother was nowhere in sight. We learnt that once a baby giraffe crosses a year old, hair begins to grow on the nape of its neck.

However, the kids were now growing bored, and the humidity isn’t helping. Apart from the brief excitement of wondering if we’d make it through a ditch—and getting stuck once, only to finally break free while getting sprayed with mud—tedium set in. I was hoping for a sighting that will end the trip on a high note, but it doesn’t seem likely.

As we continued our drive, we came upon a pride of not one, two, or three, but seven lionesses lying in the shade. We watched them for a couple of minutes, and just as the kids were ready to move on, we heard a bark, then another, and another. A dog? No, it was a baboon stuck on a baobab tree just a few feet from the lionesses. The rest of the baboons seemed to have deserted him, or perhaps he didn’t take off quickly enough. Either way, he was marooned on the tree, barking in hopes that his troop would come to his rescue.

Our guide advised us to wait and watch. The baboon paced up and down the thick branch but dared not venture down. Then, we saw an elephant slowly come into sight, followed by another, and then a third. Gradually, a whole herd came into view. They ambled towards the baobab tree, heading straight for the lionesses. One of the lionesses suddenly sprang up, something in her mouth—a baby pumba she had killed but not yet eaten. She started to run away but quickly sprinted back to the rest of the pride, as if urging them to run too. All seven lionesses scattered as the elephants continued to approach.

The elephants surrounded the tree, ensuring there was no threat to the baby elephants in their herd. We speculated that they were also keeping the baboon safe. The baboon attempted to climb down the tree but hesitated. Was he safe from the lioness, surrounded by elephants, or did he risk running from the tree, only to be trampled by the elephants or eaten by the lioness? He chose to go back up the tree.

With that, we resumed our drive out of the forest. “Amazing,” is how Sean summed it up, verbalizing everyone’s thoughts! Nature at its best!! With that, our safari came to an end, as we headed back to Arusha.